Far from land
close to the sky
Its peak always
wreathed with snow and mist, Erciyes ranks as Turkey's fifth largest mountain.
Erciyes is a compelling and hard to reach center whose mountain plants and
animals are natural both to the Black Sea and Mediterranean regions.
The writing on the wall of
the mountain guesthouse says it all: “The closer we get to the mountain, the
farther away it seems. The farther we go away, the closer we seem. Just like
a lover.' The number of climbers who return to this mountain after having
mastered it once keeps on increasing every year and when the ski slope opened
the guest house became a hotel.
Climbers say they are
propelled by a strange passion, for each time they climb, no matter what the
climatic conditions, the climb is an arduous one. Climbing Erciyes is the job
of those who have a competitive edge, loving to compete with him or herself,
the mountain, every thing that nature can hand out, and every other part of
life. They try and try to reach the summit, a summit that appears more and
more difficult the higher they climb. This summit really and truly seems to be
a lover. For those who have reached the peak, they find themselves immediately
missing the climb, even as they have just begun their return route. The
climber is beset with the urge to climb again, much like the child held in the
sway of the magic flute.
Erciyes's traps
Even though it is 10
million years old, geologists refer to Erciyes as a 'young volcano.' Covered
with a multi-colored stone face, one notices that the stones still seem alive.
Its summit is always
wreathed in snow and smoke. Its sides are ringed by 840 varieties of plants,
nine of which are unique only to this mountain. And flocks of birds are its
constant companions. Its fecundity is due to the seeds the birds drop as they
fly past this 3917-meter high mountain. In the spring the mountain is visited
by scores of varieties of butterflies that come here from the mountain steppes
and Alpine meadows. The mountain is home to fast flying eagles, red falcons,
rabbits, fox, and bats. This is the ideal hiding place for those creatures
that choose not to get on with humans. This has to be one of the most beautiful
places in all of Turkey. When the ancient historian Strabon passed by he
described Erciyes as a torch. In its geological past the fire and ash it
thrust out of its gaping middle were carried by the wind to the valleys below,
creating the other world geography of Cappadocia and its fairy chimneys. The
mountain stands at the very center of Anatolia. Not only does it gaze down on
the Black Sea and the Mediterranean, it feeds the plains below with life-giving
water.
The
group ready to start.
Loving Erciyes…
Yıldırım Güngör is one of
those souls who is in love with Erciyes and determined to climb her as long as
the mountain permits. He tells us the story of his climb and the more
difficult route he chose: Devil's Strait.
Erciyes, reaching towards
heavens, provides nourishment for its environment
“Just as we were taking our
sleeping bags out of our packs we heard the sound of thunder. This shook me up
some. A bit later raindrops began to fall. The rain was close, but the I was
protected by the tent. The thunder got louder and soon the rain began turning
into hail. The temperature in Antalya was about 20 degrees, but now snow began
falling in Erciyes. The snow became a blizzard that piled snow on us for three
hours. Darkness finally fell. I had to sleep for we were going to start out
at 2 AM. As I drifted off to sleep I could hear the strains of songs coming
from some of the other tents. I wasn't alone. As everyone fell asleep we were
left adrift in a darkness and silence unknown in the city. I couldn't believe
that time could pass this quickly! There was no way that I wanted to leave the
warmth of my sleeping bag for the piercing cold of the mountain. The hot water
for our breakfast soup had been prepared the night before. The air had been
warmed by the snow and was now above freezing. This did not mean, however that
we would not have snow as we climbed. Whatever! The night was incredibly
beautiful and the stars so near! This was one of nature's wonderful illusions.
We set off. Some team
members had set off in advance, opening a path for us to follow. But now they
were tired and had turned back. By turns we acted as path breakers. As the air
warmed stones rained down on us from the humped cliffs above. We dug and dug
trying to get through the strait. The sounds of heavy breathing merged and blended
with the noise of shovel and heavy feet treading through the snow. We finally
got past the most dangerous region. Our path was now blocked by snow. As our
hearts beat faster we shortened our rest breaks. We would stop briefly after
every 15-20 steps. We kept sipping hot beverages to try to regain the energy
diminished by the cold. The summit got further and further away as we neared
it. It's always like this. It gets further away with every step we take. We
are driven mad by the impossibility of the task and we ask ourselves whatever
we were thinking. But suddenly the summit appears, as if on its own accord.
We are a crowd of about 26 persons, all moving towards the summit that actually
only has room for about 10 of us. We take turns going up. And then we turn
back. Those holding the icebreakers in their hands let themselves go. We will
return.”
The rocks of Erciyes are
alive with inhabitants living on them.
Water called by the
mountain...
The group of 26 members on
their way back after reaching the summit...
Helpful hints
• Climbing Erciyes in the
winter is very difficult. That's because the threat of avalanche is much
greater at this time of year. The risks in the summer and spring are mainly
due to the falling stones that have been set free by melting snow. Those
traveling during those months should use a guide who is experienced with this
mountain. From the summit of Erciyes the climber gets an incredible view of
the 2528-meter Koç Mountain that lies to Erciyes's east. Climbers can take the
chair lift to the top station at 2770 meters and then follow the shepherd's path up to 3000 meters. But you should only attempt this with a guide.
• Those who hope to climb
to the summit need to have had special mountain climbing training and must use
the right technical equipment.
• In the foothills are the
Kayseri settlements of Hacılar, Hisarcık, Kızılören, Şeyhşaban, Kızık, Kulpak,
and Develi. These are places that all cry for a visit for they have very
unique textures and long histories. Most of the local people make their living
with animal husbandry and vineyards and orchards. Visible from the mountain
are the Yellow Lake lying at 2 thousand 340 meters and vast agricultural areas.
- Under normal conditions
there is about 2 meters of snow on the ground. The ski center has two ski
lifts and one chair lift.
- The ski facilities are
about half an hour distant from Kayseri's city center. The nearest airport is
40 minutes away at Kayseri Erkilet. Transportation to the slopes is provided
by private cars and organized bus trips.
The summit gets farther as
one gets near it.
The cold takes breaths
away, short breaks are necessary.
Turkey's Ski Resorts
Ağrı - Bubi Mountain
The Ağrı County Special
Directorate owns a ski chalet and a cafeteria for 60 diners. The ski resort has
a 1227m. long ski lift with a 600 person per hour capacity.
Ankara - Elmadağ
There is a ski chalet
belonging to the METU-Hacettepe-Ankara as well as to the Youth and Sports
Directorate; in addition, the Ministry of Tourism runs the Turban Hotel. There
are two privately-owned restaurants.
Antalya - Saklıkent
Bakırlı and Saklıhan Motels
offer nearly one hundred beds, a restaurant for 80 diners and a cafeteria. The
Saklıkent Ski Resort hotel provides an additional 172 bed capacity.
Bingöl - Yolaçtı (Kurucudağ
) Ski Resort
There is a 50-bed ski
chalet and a 925m. long 500 person per hour capacity ski lift.
Bitlis - Centre
The Ski Centre has a
chalet. Lodging and other services are provided in the town centre. The ski
lift is 726m. long and has a 720 person per hour capacity.
Bolu - Kartalkaya
There are two hotels
offering a total of 1005 beds in Kartalkaya. The hotels both have restaurants,
swimming pools, nightclub, bar and game rooms.
Bursa - Uludağ
A total of 27 hotels, 12
belonging to the public sector and 15 being privately owned, offer more than
3000 beds. There are shopping centres, facilities for eating, drinking and
entertainment as well as a health centre.
Elazığ - Sivrice
Hazarbaba
There are two buildings at
the Hazar Baba Ski Centre; one is the chalet, and the other is the cafeteria.
The ski chalet offers equipment for hire for day visitors and the cafeteria
offers food and drink.
Erzincan - Bolkar
There is a ski chalet.
Erzurum - Palandöken
There are four- and
five-star lodgings, a ski chalet, day facilities and restaurants. Ski lessons
and equipment hire are amongst the services on offer.
Gümüşhane - Zigana
There is a ski chalet.
Isparta - Davraz
The 50-bed capacity Ski
Chalet has a 150-seater restaurant; the hotels in town centre and the Eğirdir
township also offer an additional 600 beds.
İzmir - Ödemiş Bozdağ
The Special Directorate
finished the mechanical facility at the İzmir-Ödemiş-Bozdağ Winter Sports
Centre.
Kars - Sarıkamış
There are a number of
lodgings at the Ski Centre, two of which are public sector guesthouses. The
nearby Sarıkamış township offers additional lodging facilities as well as a
hospital. The military offers a helipad.
Kastamonu - Ilgaz
There are five state
guesthouses and two hotels at the Ski Centre. In addition, a five-star, 320-bed
hotel and an 88 self-service apartment facility were opened at the beginning of
2001.
