In the lap of the mother of rivers...

 

 

Yazı/Text-Fotoğraflar/Photos: MUSTAFA ÖNDER

 

The River Mekong runs through six countries; its banks are home to some 90 million people and it’s thought to be the lifeblood for 300 million; it’s also highly popular with tourists wishing to explore Southeast Asia on the cheap.

 

 

I haven’t the foggiest how many hours I’ve spent on this boat. We steam on, slicing through the green river water flowing relentlessly on both sides. We see people fishing on the banks and working in their hilly fields along this strange and unusual journey. This is the River Mekong, the ‘Mother of Rivers’ for many. The world’s 12th longest (4,900 km) and 10th largest in volume, this river rises in the Tibetan Plateau and runs through China, Myanmar (previously known as Burma), then forming the boundary between Thailand and Laos, thence passing into Cambodia and finally Vietnam. The Mekong is the lifeblood as well as the main transport route for these six countries. It’s a veritable treasure for the mountainous Laos. Some 90 million people live in the Mekong basin from China to Vietnam and its agriculture feeds 300 million. The river is equally riveting for Europeans and Americans as it is vital to the locals. This ‘Mother of Rivers’ takes the traveller wherever he wants to get to in this gigantic geography. Luang Prabang, the former Laotian capital, is a particular favourite with back-packers; the Mekong is the key factor here. My objectives are similar to theirs. I’m trying to find the answer to the question, ‘fast or slow boat?’ early in the morning at the Thai border town of Chiang Kahong. A fast boat will do it in six hours while a slow one will take two days to travel the same distance. Conventional wisdom would recommend the fast way; however, this fast boat is accompanied by an incredible noise, relentless shuddering and the potential for fatal accidents. I take a good long time to make my mind up; I have gone for the slower option.

We take a small boat over to Huay Xa, the Laotian border town, from Chiang Kahong to get our visas validated. There are about 25 of us from different countries. We sail on, watching the scenery, towards Luang Prabang. At first we all preserve a dignified distance. But we’re so crammed that it doesn’t take too long for the ice to break. I make friends from Sweden, Australia, America, New Zealand and Canada in the first five hours. As our boat makes its way, I view the banks with a mixture of awe and fear. The fear comes from the legends I’ve heard from the natives. We come across fishermen throwing nets every once in a while. The world’s largest catfish was caught in these waters; it has taken its place in literature as the ‘Giant Mekong Catfish’. After all this talk of ghosts and giant fish we arrive at the Pakbeng village where we are due to spend the night. The villagers all have a festive air... everyone sings the praises of his own B&B. Despite the small size of the village, there’s a wide choice. I follow a little girl for two kilometres; to the B&B she’d told me was very near. Earlier arrivals have already settled in the clean, farmhouse-type Bed and Breakfast. After settling in my room, I take a walk down to the riverside to enjoy the view of the misty Mekong. The proprietor has done the village a favour by leaving one of the TV sets on and that’s what everyone is watching. Generators are few and far between in the village so watching a film is an unexpected boon for the villagers. TV enchants all wherever you may be. Mosquitoes arrive with the advent of the night. We’d have been done for but for the netting. I dream of a Mekong in which giant fish dance. I go into the market in the morning for a bite of breakfast and some provisions. I buy fried dough balls, sticky rice in banana leaves and fruit. The spicy noodle soup warms my tummy. The Mekong has just woken up and awaits us. Pakbeng’s residents wave us goodbye as our captain weighs anchor. Our captain is a calm Laotian. It’s thanks to his experience that we’ve survived the occasional whirlpool and small-scale waterfall. That said, even those perils enliven our journey.

A loud noise shakes us during our peaceful journey. A speedboat and its victims overtake us. Our whole crew look at one another with barely-disguised joy. We come across a tiny bay alongside one of the banks. As we approach, we see lots of people awaiting our arrival eagerly, stalls laid out like a market. We have limited time; ten minutes’ shopping and we’re back on the way. This time it’s young children, skipping and swimming delightedly, who entertain us. Some wave at us from the banks, while others demonstrate their high diving skills.

The increase in the number of boats we pass by and the settlements on both banks indicates our approach to Luang Prabang. And finally, after a two-day journey amongst the green scenery, Luang Prabang is laid out before us.

 

A Budist temple in Laos… despite its enigmatic aspect, welcomes everyone…

 

Human scenes from Chiang Kahong to Luang Prabang…